Matsuzakaya Honten: A Journey Through Time in Hakone

360 Years of Heritage: A Stay Immersed in Japanese History in Hakone

Hakone, a true gem nestled just 1.5 hours from Tokyo by train, is a coveted destination for its soothing hot springs, refined gastronomy, and breathtaking natural landscapes. Within this enchanting setting lies the picturesque district of Higashi-Ashinoyu, home to Matsuzakaya Honten. Approximately 25 minutes by bus from Hakone-Yumoto Station, the main gateway to this idyllic region, this historic ryokan stands proudly, steeped in a rich history that draws visitors seeking authenticity and serenity.

Founded in 1662, Matsuzakaya Honten has endured through the centuries to become a cherished retreat surrounded by a vast 13,000 m² estate. This ryokan, which celebrated its 360th anniversary in 2022, houses 21 rooms spread across several pavilions, each offering a complete immersion in the Japanese art of living. This storied destination, immortalized by ukiyo-e artist Hiroshige Utagawa, has welcomed illustrious figures, including members of the Imperial Family and prominent personalities of the Meiji era, such as Takayoshi Kido and Takamori Saigo. With its cultural heritage and exceptional natural setting, Matsuzakaya Honten promises an unforgettable experience for Japanese and international travelers seeking refinement and tranquility.

Meiji Era Charm: Echoes of an Elegant Past

Nestled within a 17th-century building, Matsuzakaya Honten embodies the excellence of thermal hospitality with a style that transports visitors to the Meiji era. The lounge area, inspired by Western architecture of that period, offers an experience of serenity and historic charm, ideal for escaping the modern bustle. Guests are greeted with an assortment of Meiji-era confections, accompanied by a choice of tea or coffee, evoking the delightful atmosphere of a retro café. Check-in takes place in this refined setting, where guests can reserve their meal times and private bath slots while discovering the facilities with elegance. Another charming space, the bar area opens onto large bay windows overlooking a Japanese garden, where one can unwind with a drink, with a variety of complimentary beverages available throughout the day. As for the sunken hearth adorned with traditional games and illustrated books, it evokes a gentle and welcoming nostalgia.

21 Rooms Where Space Meets Japanese Elegance

The rooms are spread across five pavilions, each offering a unique atmosphere and an intimate connection with the surrounding nature. With a total of 21 rooms, ten of which feature open-air baths, each pavilion boasts stunning views of a 6,630-square-meter garden. The seasons lend this setting an ever-changing beauty: spring awakens blossoms, summer envelops in lush greenery, autumn paints the foliage in vibrant hues, and winter blankets everything in snow. This constantly evolving landscape invites serene immersion, perfect for contemplation and meditation.

We had the pleasure of staying in the Kozue suite, located in the Shunpuso pavilion, renowned not only for its history but also for its harmonious blend of tradition and modernity. Spanning 75 square meters, this luxury Japanese suite features a separate tatami living area with a central kotatsu, creating a warm and soothing ambiance during our February visit. Every element, from the elevated tokonoma showcasing a calligraphic scroll to the large twin bed on tatami, reflects a pursuit of balance between understated refinement and contemporary comfort, ensuring a luxurious stay imbued with serenity. The private hinoki wood bath is the ultimate indulgence, offering views of the garden for a truly unique moment of relaxation.

An Ancestral Breakfast

The Traveler's Breakfast is a culinary tradition rooted in history, designed to nourish and revitalize all those setting off on an adventure. This morning meal, reinterpreted with modern ingredients, provides travelers with the energy needed to explore the world all day long. We savored the "Chousyoku" menu, which features a variety of steamed Japanese vegetables along with pickles. It also includes Matsuzakaya's homemade natto, Japanese beef simmered with Japanese pepper, and a soft-boiled egg cooked in the hot spring. For tofu enthusiasts, the Yu-dofu — a boiled Japanese tofu seasoned with ginger and green onion — is a delightful option. Fish lovers will appreciate the kamaboko, a boiled fish paste served with Wasabizuke, a fish paste specialty with a long history dating back to 1814. The meal is rounded out with barley rice and grated yam potato paste, accompanied by a local miso soup. Finally, grilled local fish from Sagami Bay and a homemade milk jelly dessert with Matsuzakaya's honey sauce crown this nourishing and refined breakfast.

A Culinary Symphony Through the Japanese Seasons

Dinner at restaurant En is a true ode to Japan's gastronomic richness, where every bite reveals nourishing and refined flavors. The Shukuba Kaiseki, once cherished at the Hakone inn, invites diners on a culinary journey through the eight seasonal moments of the traditional Japanese calendar. Comfortably seated in a semi-private lounge or a tatami room, one can admire the changing nature through the window. To perfect this sensory experience, a selection of local sakés and wines is offered, carefully chosen to complement the seasonal dishes.

We savored the "SYUKUBA KAISEKI" menu, a true culinary masterpiece that begins with a harmonious assortment of delicate small portions: monkfish liver is elevated by a green pea paste, while the crab and white Japanese radish roll, called Kinutamaki, offers a fascinating contrast of textures and flavors. Bamboo shoots and seaweed simmered in a rich sauce add depth, while scallops with mustard buds and a miso vinaigrette bring a piquant touch. Finally, Seri greens, red konjac, and shiitake mushrooms marinated in sesame paste complete this refined gustatory journey.

We continued with this delicate dish, a Japanese preparation showcasing carefully selected ingredients simmered in a sweet mirin and soy sauce. Yellowtail, Japanese daikon, and Japanese spinach form the main elements of this refined dish. The natural, vibrant colors of the ingredients are enhanced by the amber broth, creating a visual and gustatory symphony that is quintessentially Japanese.

The sashimi platter is a magnificent expression of Japanese cuisine, featuring three varieties of sashimi: red tuna, flounder, shrimp, and yuba (tofu skin). Each element is carefully arranged to offer a refined visual and gustatory experience. Accompanied by crushed bonito, the dish is served with traditional soy sauce and a citrus ponzu sauce, adding a touch of freshness and complexity to every bite.

The Grilled Spanish Mackerel with White Miso Paste, also known as Saikyoyaki, is yet another true culinary masterpiece. The Spanish mackerel is grilled to perfection, revealing tender and flavorful flesh enhanced by the umami richness of the white miso paste. The dish is elegantly garnished with pieces of hassaku orange, Japanese ginger, and chrysanthemum leaves, adding freshness and vibrant color. The whole is elevated by a crab sauce, offering a depth of delicate flavors.

This exquisite dish features a tempura of noodle fish and spring vegetables. The light crispness of the tempura batter envelops the fresh ingredients, offering a perfect contrast with their tenderness. Alongside, a small bowl of matcha salt stands ready to be sprinkled for a subtle and fragrant umami note.

The following dish presents a delicious cut of local Ashigara beef, grilled to perfection on an iron plate using the traditional Tobanyaki method. Accompanied by carefully selected seasonal vegetables, this dish offers a harmony of flavors through a garlic and almond soy sauce, subtly enhanced with rock salt. The beef, juicy and tender, is highlighted by the simplicity and elegance of its preparation, delivering an authentic and refined culinary experience. The vegetables add a note of freshness and color, completing this dish in exquisite fashion.

The pot-cooked rice, enriched with Asari clams, mushrooms, and fried tofu, offers a harmonious combination of marine and earthy flavors. This dish is a delightful composition that showcases savory, well-balanced ingredients. The rice, cooked to perfection, absorbs the essences of the ingredients, creating a rich and comforting tasting experience. Accompanied by miso soup and crunchy vegetable pickles, this dish offers a pleasant contrast between the creaminess of the rice and the crunch of the vegetables, all enhanced by the umami flavors of the soup.

To conclude this meal, an elegant dessert features a delicate selection of fresh seasonal fruits, bringing a touch of freshness and color. Accompanied by a homemade pudding, the creamy texture and subtle sweetness of the pudding pair perfectly with the intense flavor of the chocolate ice cream. A cup of tea subtly completes this dessert, offering a perfect balance between sweetness and bitterness.

The Art of Japanese Relaxation

Ashinoyu Onsen, a legacy from the Edo period, stands today as a true wellness sanctuary, certified as a "National Recreational Hot Spring Area." This unique destination is a treasure for onsen enthusiasts, combining the virtues of sulfurous, sulfated, and bicarbonated waters. Its slightly alkaline nature and high temperature make it a source of soothing relief for the skin, helping to eliminate impurities and stimulate blood circulation. By immersing themselves in these precious waters, visitors can experience the beneficial effects on their skin and overall well-being — a tradition perpetuated through the centuries.

The large public thermal bath, recently renovated, offers an immersive experience that elegantly blends tradition and modernity. Visitors can relax in a spacious setting where wood and glass harmonize to create a serene atmosphere, while enjoying stunning views of a Japanese garden. For those seeking greater privacy, the five private open-air baths are an invitation to a personal escape in the heart of nature. These facilities, inaugurated in 2019, allow families and couples to savor a moment of tranquility, lulled by the murmurs of the surrounding forest. We had the pleasure of enjoying one of the private baths at the end of the day for maximum disconnection and relaxation.

My Review

Matsuzakaya Honten stands out not only for its enchanting setting in Hakone but also for its impressive history dating back to 1662, making this ryokan a true witness to bygone eras. This destination, steeped in the heritage from the Edo era through the Meiji era, offers visitors a journey into a rich and fascinating past with only a handful of rooms. This unique character is accentuated by the care taken to preserve the authenticity of Japanese architecture and hospitality, while integrating elements of modern comfort. Every stay here is a true immersion in time, where the charm and refinement of days gone by blend harmoniously with unparalleled gastronomic and wellness experiences.

What I loved:

• The service and staff, highly professional yet also very warm, with an excellent level of English.
• The room, very pleasant, bright, and spacious, with a kotatsu in winter, as well as a private outdoor bath with a view.
• The onsen set within nature, with superb private baths.

What I regretted:

• In our room, the shower was outdoor only, which can be problematic in winter if you prefer not to brave the cold.

Practical Information

• Kozue room with dinner and breakfast included at a rate of €600 in February 2026.