Three generations of the Lorain family have shaped this Relais & Châteaux property perched above the Yonne, where rooms with private patios frame views of forested Burgundy hills. The two-Michelin-starred kitchen showcases Loire river fish and champagne-steamed poularde, while sommelier Thomas Noble's natural wine selection draws from one of the region's finest cellars. An 800-square-metre spa with panoramic river views completes the retreat.
Where to Stay
1 Michelin Key
A white-shuttered 19th-century manor draped in climbing vines, this ten-room Burgundy retreat doubles as a contemporary art gallery, its interiors filled with bespoke Dutch furniture and museum-caliber pieces against exposed 17th-century beams. The locavore restaurant sources free-range, organic ingredients for an ever-changing menu. A seasonal pool, hammam, and sauna complete the estate, with vineyard tours through the surrounding wine country.
Where to Eat
★★ Michelin· Green Star ●· Relais & Châteaux
Four generations of the Lorain family have shaped this two-Michelin-starred table on the banks of the Yonne, where chef Jean-Michel Lorain personally welcomes diners and occasionally shares kitchen secrets in cooking classes. The menu honors iconic house creations—lobster stew, ginger-glazed sweetbreads—while Alexandre Bondoux contributes inventive plates. A Green Star acknowledges the sustainable approach, and Burgundy's vineyards provide ideal pairings through on-site tastings.
★ Michelin
Shaped like the prow of an ocean liner, Patrick Gauthier's one-starred dining room floats at the tip of a small island on the Yonne, its Scandinavian-Asian design creating serene detachment from Sens below. The chef personally presents each day's market finds—John Dory with citrus beurre blanc, Corrèze sweetbreads—while four cheese trolleys and an exceptional wine list complete the voyage.
Michelin Selected
Chef-owner Mathieu Sagardoytho runs a kitchen obsessed with provenance: mirin-marinated mackerel from Trinité-sur-Mer, lamb raised at Clavisy farm, plums harvested in Yonne. The creative menu treats each ingredient as protagonist, while the wine list reads like a love letter to Chablis and greater Burgundy. A serious table for travelers who want local terroir without pretension.
Bib Gourmand
Two Japanese chefs with a deep affection for French tradition run this spirited wine bistro alongside a local entrepreneur, producing house-made tapas, impeccable charcuterie, and purebred meats aged to precision. The Bib Gourmand-recognized kitchen delivers modern cuisine while the wine list—offered at remarkably fair prices—draws both Chablis locals and visiting oenophiles to share tables in an atmosphere of genuine conviviality.
Bib Gourmand
Named for the vine shoot—a fitting tribute to Burgundy's terroir—Le Sarment pairs two chefs whose collaborative kitchen yields honest, vegetable-forward cooking. The Bib Gourmand distinction recognizes their restrained approach: roast beetroot meets beef tataki with just a whisper of garlic, while desserts like amandine-style pear with green cardamom and yuzu demonstrate precise, unhurried craftsmanship. Modern cuisine without pretense.
Michelin Selected
A stone's throw from Coulanges-la-Vineuse's village church, J'MCA delivers market-driven cooking with unmistakable Gallic soul. The kitchen's signature lacquered sweetbread with peanuts and cauliflower exemplifies its approach: classical technique applied to pristine seasonal produce. Expect homemade terrines, upside-down onion tarts, and calf's head alongside autumn game—honest, expertly crafted plates served with genuine warmth in a handsome village setting.
Michelin Selected
A historic townhouse at the foot of Saint Pierre Church houses this minimalist dining room where a Japanese chef applies exacting precision to Burgundian ingredients. The approach yields dishes like trout with beurre blanc, celeriac, and nori seaweed, or pork rack with charcutière sauce—local tradition filtered through Japanese technique. Lunch offers accessible market menus; evenings turn more ambitious.
Michelin Selected
An 18th-century manor house facing the village church, La Table pairs chef Jérémie's classical French training with the pastry finesse of Sun Young, his Korean-born partner—both alumni of prestigious kitchens abroad. The menu leans traditional: poultry roasted to crisp-skinned tenderness alongside wild chanterelles, beef chuck confit brightened by hazelnut and a punchy mustard-shallot sauce. Desserts—floating island with Tahitian vanilla, raspberry cheesecake—close meals with assured sweetness.
Michelin Selected
François Liebaert, a chef with deep roots in Auxerre's dining scene, runs this intimate modern bistro steps from the covered market. His seasonal cooking delivers confident creative flourishes—line-caught hake paired with a robust Spanish sauce showcases both technical precision and bold flavor instincts. The compact dining room, thoughtfully refurbished, provides an ideal setting for unhurried meals with artistic plating that rewards attention.
Michelin Selected
Beneath the vaulted stone cellars of Domaine Laroche, one of Chablis's most celebrated wine estates, a Japanese chef applies Tokyo training and French technique to regional meat cookery. The approach is inventive yet grounded—classic Burgundian dishes reworked with precision and restraint. A Michelin Plate acknowledges the kitchen's consistency, while the intimate cellar setting and fair pricing make this an essential stop for visitors exploring the appellation.
What to Do
Relais & Châteaux
Spanning 8,600 square feet across two levels, this riverside wellness retreat positions its indoor pool and hot tub to capture sweeping views of the Yonne. The lower floor houses a sauna, hammam, and multiple steam chambers, while private treatment cabins feature affusion showers and individual hammams. Part of the Lorain family's celebrated property, the spa complements a stay anchored by two-Michelin-starred dining.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best way to explore the Chablis vineyards without a car?
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Several Chablis estates lie within walking distance of the town centre, including domaines along the Rue Auxerroise. For the Grand Cru climats on the slopes above, local taxi services and cycling routes along quiet vineyard roads offer practical alternatives. The Serein valley terrain remains gentle enough for casual cyclists.
When do Chablis winemakers typically open their cellars for tastings?
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Most domaines receive visitors by appointment, with morning slots from 10h to 12h and afternoon hours resuming around 14h30. Harvest season from late September through October sees many cellars close to visitors entirely. The winter months offer quieter, more personal encounters with winemakers.
Is Auxerre worth visiting alongside Chablis?
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Auxerre provides urban counterpoint to Chablis's village pace. The cathedral quarter merits a half-day for the Saint-Étienne treasury and abbey of Saint-Germain's Carolingian crypts. The riverside promenade and covered market hall add practical amenities — better restaurant variety, evening dining options, and train connections to Paris and Dijon.
Nearby Destinations
Explore France
Chablis
The Chablis appellation stretches across twenty villages along the Serein valley, where Kimmeridgian limestone soils produce some of the world's most distinctive white wines. The town itself remains remarkably compact — a single main street lined with centuries-old cellars, the Romanesque collegiate church of Saint-Martin standing watch over Place Charles de Gaulle. Thirty kilometres south, Auxerre rises along the Yonne river, its medieval quarter climbing uphill toward the Gothic cathedral of Saint-Étienne, whose asymmetrical facade and 13th-century stained glass reward those who venture beyond the waterfront.
Dining here follows the Burgundian calendar: spring brings snails from nearby farms, summer sees terraces fill along the quays in Auxerre's marine district, autumn tables groan under époisses and cîteaux cheeses. The winemakers of Chablis keep traditional hours — cellar visits pause at noon, resuming only after lengthy lunches. Between the two towns, the Canal du Nivernais offers towpath cycling through lock-keeper cottages and sleepy villages where time moves at the pace of passing barges.