Bull & Bear: A Legendary Steakhouse in Bangkok, by Waldorf Astoria

Waldorf Astoria Bangkok: Where New York Glamour Meets Dynamic Bangkok

The Waldorf Astoria Bangkok distinguishes itself through its unique architecture, inspired by the celebrated Waldorf Astoria New York, while incorporating contemporary Thai elements. The work of architects André Fu and AvroKO studio elegantly blends the glamour of old New York with touches of brass and marble, enhanced by traditional weaving patterns and silk. This exceptional design is reflected in its sumptuous interiors, where high ceilings and expansive windows flood the spaces with natural light, creating an atmosphere of serene luxury. Among its remarkable features, the top three floors are dedicated to an elevated gastronomic experience, offering breathtaking views of the city. It was precisely to discover this culinary experience that we chose to dine at the prestigious Bull & Bear restaurant, located on the 55th floor.

Art Deco Splendor: The Essence of Bull & Bear

The style of Bull & Bear, designed by AvroKO, a renowned New York firm, is expressed through a rich and sophisticated color palette. Shades of ebony, dove gray, bronze, and deep red harmonize with brass details to create an elegant and contemporary atmosphere. The space is meticulously arranged with distinct zones, including a bar, a private dining room, a main dining room, and an open kitchen, allowing for a diverse culinary experience. A fresh seafood bar mingles with a custom grill, while the main bar is adorned with a local reproduction of the famous Wall Street bull and bear statues, enriched with detailed Thai sculptures. Throughout the space, a subtle allusion to the mythical Thai concept of Garuda and Naga, with feather and snakeskin motifs, integrates harmoniously.

Lighting plays a crucial role in the restaurant's ambiance. William Harris, founding partner of AvroKO, emphasizes the importance of sculpting the space with light that plays and reflects off varied surfaces, creating an atmosphere both refined and visceral. A highlight is the majestic suspended chandelier, composed of more than 800 hand-molded glass feathers, which lends a touch of modern elegance while evoking an animal presence. By absorbing the vibrant energy of Bangkok and embracing dazzling views of the city, the restaurant becomes an ideal stage for moments of socializing and celebration. The entrance via an iconic golden staircase and the panoramic windows underscore the harmonious marriage between the grandiose and the intimate, ensuring an unforgettable experience.

Steakhouse at the Summit

Bull & Bear draws inspiration from the classic New York steakhouse, where the art of grilling blends with an atmosphere of timeless luxury and modern sophistication. This iconic restaurant reinvents the steakhouse culinary experience with exceptional grilled dishes and impeccable service, paying homage to the legendary Bull & Bear of New York. It offers an exquisite selection of premium meats and seafood, grilled to perfection on a custom charcoal grill. The latter, fueled by eucalyptus wood and other carefully selected hardwoods, imparts an unparalleled depth of flavor and a subtle smoky note to each dish, elevating every bite.

Bull & Bear is designed to transform every meal into a memorable occasion, whether it's a celebration, a business dinner, or a moment to savor. The menu features signature dishes such as the porterhouse steak, dry-aged Australian lamb rack, as well as a variety of innovative dishes like langoustine tartare and smoked tuna. Additionally, the drinks and wine list, including prestigious selections from the United States, France, and Australia, completes the gastronomic experience. On weekends, the restaurant also offers a Surf & Turf Extravaganza brunch, a semi-buffet feast inviting guests to enjoy fresh seafood and prime cuts of meat.

A Journey Through Flavors: Jeiw's Culinary Symphony

Hathairat Urapanthamat, known as Jeiw, is the accomplished chef de cuisine at the helm of Bull & Bear. Since childhood, she has nurtured an unwavering passion for cooking, which she pursued with determination despite family reservations. With over a decade of experience in Bangkok's high-end gastronomy scene, Jeiw honed her craft alongside eminent chefs at renowned establishments such as Sirocco and The House on Sathorn. She joined the Bull & Bear team as sous chef in 2022 and was quickly promoted to chef de cuisine. Under the direction of Holm Klaenhammer, she excels in creating innovative menus and ensuring an exceptional gastronomic experience for her guests, while carefully selecting premium ingredients.

Between Land and Sea: An Ode to Refined Gastronomy

On an elegantly set table, an assortment of culinary delights is carefully presented. At the center, refined amuse-bouches rest on an elevated stand, accompanied by a plate of varied breads, golden to perfection, and a generous knob of butter. My husband opted for the B&B sunset mocktail, vibrant and sophisticated, its layers of colors evoking a tropical sunset with notes of cranberry juice, lychee, coconut syrup, silpin rosé, and a sparkling touch of peach Perrier. For my part, I sipped a glass of The Pale Rosé from Caves d'Esclans, promising an exquisite sensory experience with a panoramic view in the background.

The meal begins with the Hokkaido Scallops, a true culinary work of art. The scallops, delicately seared, are arranged on a creamy sauce that highlights their sweet, buttery flavor. Alongside, a portion of spinach Riso pasta, its vibrant color beautifully contrasting with the crispy Jerusalem artichoke shards crowning it, adds a touch of sophistication. A fresh tomato salsa brings a refreshing acidity, perfectly balancing this refined dish. Each element is carefully presented, offering a visual experience as exquisite as the taste.

Continuing this journey of exquisite flavors, the Pan-Seared Foie Gras proves to be a remarkable visual and gustatory composition. The foie gras, seared to perfection, is delicately placed at the center of the plate, surrounded by a vibrant raspberry gel that brings freshness and color. The balsamic and Madeira jus enriches the dish with a sweet depth that contrasts with the slightly bitter notes of arugula and frisée. Pistachio shards are scattered throughout, adding a crunchy texture and subtle nutty aroma, while fresh raspberries complete this symphony of flavors.

The following dish, a sumptuous 160g Australian Diamantina Wagyu Filet MBS6, continues to delight the palate. Perfectly seared, this filet reveals its tenderness and exquisite flavor, accompanied by refined sauces, including a classic Béarnaise and a Bull & Bear BBQ, adding layers of complexity to each bite. With this exceptional cut of meat, the salt-roasted potato purée offers a creamy, comforting texture topped with homemade potato chips that provide a pleasant crunch. The creamed spinach adds a note of freshness and greenery, perfectly completing the dish. For a touch of opulence, the Truffle Mac & Cheese, enriched with Boston lobster bisque and béchamel, promises an unforgettable culinary experience.

Continuing this culinary adventure, the dry-aged Western Australian lamb rack is a true work of art. The lamb chops, beautifully pink inside, contrast with their golden, crispy coating. They are accompanied by a roasted garlic eggplant cream, providing a creamy, aromatic touch that pairs perfectly with the lamb's tenderness. The kale, a vibrant green, adds freshness and a crunchy texture, while the rich, savory lamb jus delicately coats the meat, enhancing each bite with an irresistible depth of flavor.

To conclude this sumptuous meal, the "Baked New York Cheesecake" stands out for its delicate and refined creation, offering a unique taste experience. This classic dessert is elevated by a touch of spiced orange that brings a slightly piquant citrus note, balanced by the richness of salted caramel sauce. Atop the cheesecake sits a scoop of vanilla ice cream, creating a perfect contrast between the cake and the creamy freshness of the ice cream. The elegant presentation, with a dried orange slice adding a visual and aromatic dimension, makes this dessert a true delight for the senses.

Finally, the Exotic Éclair closes this culinary experience beautifully, combining refined tropical flavors. This dessert features a smooth mango cream, providing a fruity sweetness, topped with a coconut ganache that adds a creamy, exotic touch. The crispy tropical meringue offers a contrasting texture, while lime zest enhances the ensemble with a refreshing hint of acidity. Pieces of pineapple complete this gourmet tableau, bringing a juicy freshness.

My Review

Nestled atop Bangkok, Bull & Bear is an ode to the classic New York steakhouse, reimagined with contemporary sophistication. In a setting inspired by Art Deco elegance, each dish is a celebration of quality, with meats and seafood grilled to perfection on a custom charcoal grill. With its elegant ambiance, Bull & Bear positions itself as an essential destination for gastronomy enthusiasts, enhanced by breathtaking views of the city.