Stéphanie Le Quellec's first eponymous restaurant earned two Michelin stars four months after opening, a recognition of her generous, story-driven cuisine that deliberately deconsecrates haute gastronomy. The menu unfolds in numbered 'acts', each dish layered with big-boned sauces and sherry vinegar; her constantly refined red mullet and Kristal osciètre caviar with pain perdu remain signatures. An unorthodox cellar pours wines by the glass from magnums and jeroboams, while the dining room—brass details, marble tables, open kitchen—recalls a chic cruise liner.
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