Sixteen autonomous wooden eco-lodges scatter across a 2,500-acre WWF-affiliated wilderness in the Apennines, where wolves and deer roam oak and beech forests at 1,100 meters altitude. The car-free estate supplies electric bikes, kayaks, and paddleboards on Lake San Vito, while dining splits between the cosy trattoria La Casa Luigi and elegant Le Felci in a restored stone farmhouse. Lodges with bunk beds suit families seeking wild Tuscany beyond the postcard.
Where to Stay
This organic farm retreat occupies the rolling hills of Mugello, a stretch of Tuscany that remains refreshingly off the beaten path. The landscape rewards hikers, cyclists, and those seeking rural immersion over urban bustle—though Florence sits just forty minutes away by train. An adults-oriented atmosphere prevails; children under ten are discouraged, preserving the property's contemplative character.
Pope Pius IX and the King of Sardinia once slept within these Renaissance walls—a pedigree matched by the villa's impeccable restoration. Forty-four acres of parkland frame views across the Apennine Mountains, while interiors earn perfect marks for style and character. An hour from Florence, this retreat suits travelers seeking Tuscan grandeur with genuine historical weight. Small pets stay free in select room categories.
A working winery turned intimate retreat, Filodivino occupies contemporary brick buildings amid the rolling vineyards of Le Marche. Its eight rooms feature unfinished textures that echo the agricultural setting, while the spa offers Turkish bath, sauna, and jacuzzi. The restaurant pairs classic regional cuisine with estate wines, and a rooftop terrace bar overlooks the seasonal pool and surrounding hills.
Seven rooms, no televisions, and a deliberate absence of distraction define this adults-only Tuscan villa in the Mugello Valley. Bold color palettes punctuate rustic farmhouse bones, while windows frame the rolling landscape as living art. A seasonal pool anchors the garden; wood-burning fireplaces warm cooler evenings. Bikes and nearby wine tours extend the immersion for couples seeking Florence's countryside without the crowds.
Where to Eat
Michelin Selected
Silence envelops this Tuscan retreat where an open kitchen commands one side of the elegant dining room while floor-to-ceiling French doors frame the forested Casentino valley. The 'Madre' tasting menu showcases regional mastery—delicate sweetbreads glazed with local gray pork jus, grilled guinea fowl delivering robust, ancestral flavors. A lighter 'In libertà' format offers flexibility without sacrificing depth.
Bib Gourmand
Bib Gourmand recognition confirms what locals already know: Il Tirabusciò delivers Casentino's bold regional cooking with uncommon generosity. The chef works the dining room himself, explaining provenance and steering choices with infectious enthusiasm. Expect robust flavors—earthy, direct, unapologetically Tuscan—served in a centuries-old townhouse along Bibbiena's narrow streets. A bistronomic address for travelers seeking substance over spectacle.
Bib Gourmand
This family-run trattoria in the picturesque village of Cutigliano holds a Bib Gourmand for its honest, ingredient-driven cooking. Mushrooms reign supreme here—foraged from surrounding forests and prepared with knowing restraint—alongside handmade pasta and robust meat dishes. The meal closes on a high note with a signature puff pastry apple rose, served warm with cinnamon ice cream.
Bib Gourmand
Sisters Mariangela and Cristina divide their talents between dining room and kitchen at this Bib Gourmand address on the road to Camaldoli. Their creative cooking draws deeply from Tuscan tradition, yielding rustic plates rich with homely aromas and honest flavors. The atmosphere remains decidedly familial—warm smiles, unhurried service, and the kind of genuine hospitality that makes travelers linger over a second carafe.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I reach Mugello and Casentino from Florence?
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The Mugello lies roughly 40 kilometers north of Florence via the SS65 or the A1 autostrada toward Bologna. The Casentino requires crossing the Consuma pass on the SS70, about an hour's drive east. Public transport exists but runs infrequently—a rental car opens up the smaller villages and countryside estates that define these valleys.
What is the best season to visit these Tuscan valleys?
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Spring brings wildflowers and mild temperatures ideal for hiking. Autumn delivers porcini season and chestnut festivals, with forests turning gold and copper. Summer can be warm but remains cooler than Florence. Winter offers solitude and truffle season, though some smaller establishments close January through February.
What local dishes should I try in Mugello and Casentino?
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The Mugello is known for tortelli di patate—pasta parcels filled with potato and served with meat ragù. Casentino specialties include scottiglia, a mixed meat stew, and anything featuring the prized local grey beef. Both regions produce excellent pecorino cheese and chestnut flour, used in castagnaccio cake and necci crepes.
Nearby Destinations
Explore Italy
Mugello Casentino
These twin valleys north of Florence remain remarkably untouched by mass tourism. The Mugello stretches along the Sieve River, its rolling hills dotted with Renaissance villas once owned by the Medici—their country estates still visible from winding provincial roads. The Casentino climbs higher into the Apennines, where chestnut forests surround ancient monasteries at La Verna and Camaldoli. Both regions share a frontier quality, agricultural communities where butchers still make their own finocchiona and trattorias serve ribollita by the fire.
Accommodation here favors converted farmhouses and family-run country hotels over international brands. Expect thick stone walls, terracotta floors, and kitchens turning out dishes unchanged for generations. The dining scene revolves around local ingredients—Mugello potatoes, Casentino grey cattle, porcini gathered from the forest floor. Mornings start with strong coffee in village bars where farmers discuss the weather, evenings end early. This is not polished hospitality but something rarer: genuine Tuscan rural life, available to those willing to leave the autostrada behind.