Roman amphitheaters still host bullfights in summer. Van Gogh painted the café terraces along Place du Forum, and the light here remains that specific Mediterranean gold that drew him south from Paris. The old town clusters within remnants of ancient walls, limestone facades opening onto squares where plane trees provide shade for the inevitable pastis hour. Beyond the city limits, the Camargue spreads flat and wild — salt marshes, pink flamingos, white horses, black bulls.
Hotels split between the historic center and converted mas properties in the surrounding countryside. The Roquette district offers quieter streets and neighborhood restaurants away from the tourist circuits around the arena. Across the Rhône, the less-visited Trinquetaille quarter has its own unhurried rhythm. For the Camargue itself, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer serves as the gateway town, though the most memorable properties sit isolated among rice paddies and lagoons, accessible only by narrow roads where bulls sometimes block traffic.