Sui Tang Li, Between Chinese Heritage and Contemporary Creation in Shanghai
Within the refined setting of Upper House Shanghai, Sui Tang Li embodies the understated elegance and gourmet modernity of Shanghai. Inspired by the spirit of traditional houses and elevated by a contemporary aesthetic, the restaurant reveals a universe where light, materials, and subtle hues harmonize beautifully. Sui Tang Li offers cuisine that reinvents Chinese traditions with finesse and creativity, delivering an experience that is both authentic, generous, and decidedly modern. It is in this tranquil cocoon that we discovered a table where every detail finds its perfect place.
Upper House Shanghai, A Modern Oasis in the Heart of Shanghai
Located in the heart of the vibrant Jing'an district, Upper House Shanghai stands out for its elegant fusion of Chinese and Italian design, orchestrated by architect Piero Lissoni. Between its light-filled curved towers, its spectacular public spaces, and its bamboo-lined outdoor oasis, the hotel embodies a contemporary vision of luxury, where every detail reveals a rare aesthetic mastery. The rooms, with their neutral tones and black marble bathrooms, offer soothing comfort, while the underground spa and exceptional restaurants further enhance the experience. And it is in this refined setting that we came for lunch at Sui Tang Li.
Between Chinese Tradition and Contemporary Creativity
The style of Sui Tang Li is inspired by a spirit of lightness, freedom, and relaxation, giving life to a discreet setting where privacy takes center stage. Awarded a Michelin selection and multiple Black Pearl distinctions, the restaurant subtly blends tradition and modernity: a partition wall adorned with green glazed tiles contrasts with an amber-colored glass kitchen, while natural light envelops the space in a sophisticated yet unpretentious atmosphere. The aesthetic, both refined and warm, invites guests to savor a moment of calm in a décor where every detail has been carefully considered.
On the culinary side, Sui Tang Li offers a contemporary interpretation of Shanghainese, Sichuanese, and Cantonese cuisines, favoring small shared plates and elegant presentations. Creativity shines through in reinvented dim sum, such as marbled-skin xiao long bao, but also in a menu that highlights Chinese teas and wines with delicate pairings. This bold and generous culinary approach makes Sui Tang Li the most sought-after destination in the hotel, perfect for a relaxed lunch or a convivial dinner.
Chef Tony, Between Shanghainese Heritage and Gourmet Travels
A native of Shanghai, Chef Tony has shaped his culinary identity over two decades spent between Shanghai and Singapore, first as a Dim Sum chef and later in prestigious establishments such as the Michelin-starred Yong Yi Ting and Jin Sha at Four Seasons Hangzhou. At Sui Tang Li, he showcases cuisine deeply rooted in his origins, enriched by his travels and constant curiosity for regional Chinese traditions. His style reflects a modern vision of Shanghai: a city open to the world, embracing exchanges and influences, where classic techniques meet contemporary daring. His approach rests on a balance between technical mastery, joyful creativity, and respect for culinary heritage.
Last spring, Chef Tony introduced BASHU Impression, an exclusive menu inspired by the Bashu region, offered from April to October 2025. This gastronomic journey of twenty-one dishes paid homage to Sichuan and Chongqing, two lands whose markets, teahouses, and culinary landscapes he explored in February 2025. From the delicate umami of Ya'an caviar to the vibrant aromas of Zigong pepper, he translated this immersion into a contemporary interpretation, blending intensity, history, and visual elegance. Although this menu has ended, it marks an essential step in Chef Tony's culinary expression, as he continues to enrich Sui Tang Li with his personal vision and his talent for reinventing Chinese traditions with sensitivity and modernity.
A Refined Exploration of Chinese Gastronomy
My tea, a Ming Qian Longjing, opened the meal with a remarkably clear infusion, a crystalline green almost translucent. Its delicately vegetal aroma rose softly, promising a fresh, silky tasting experience. My husband's A Yi Pu-er formed a fascinating contrast: a bright red liquor, a deep and persistent aroma with woody and earthy notes, and a rich, rounded, almost enveloping texture.
The first dishes arrived with an almost theatrical precision, beginning with the Iberian Ham Xiao Long Bao. Their delicately pink skin already hinted at the aromatic depth of the ham that perfumed the filling. Upon tasting, the hot broth, tender meat, and umami-rich ham melded into a remarkably delicate bite, a true demonstration of craftsmanship. Next came the Salted Egg Yolk Buns with tapioca jelly, a wonderfully gentle combination: soft bun, creamy sweet-salty core, and subtle freshness from the jelly, offering a comforting and refined harmony.
Then came an original pairing: Scallion Pancakes with Iberian Ham and Crispy Foie Gras with Hazelnuts. Crispness, sweetness, umami, and smoky aromas complemented each other with precision, presented with understated elegance.
The double-infused matsutake soup offered a more contemplative pause. Its golden, clear broth concentrated all the woody aroma of the matsutake. Between the finely cut tofu, the bamboo fungus veil, and matsutake slices, the dish revealed a rare purity. Then the Braised Beef Short Rib, accompanied by beef tongue and pastries, brought comforting generosity: melting meat, caramelized notes, silky tongue, and crisp pastries composed a sophisticated interplay of textures, perfectly balanced.
The meal continued with a vegetal interlude: Yellow Fungus Sautéed with Asparagus and Lily Bulb. The bright freshness of the asparagus, the tender, delicately floral lily bulb, and the subtle sweetness of the yellow fungus formed a luminous composition, celebrating the purity of plant-based cuisine. Then the Egg-Yolk Tempura Shrimp with Mustard added a gourmet touch: golden crispiness, the creaminess of the egg yolk, and the gently spicy mustard notes blended in perfect harmony.
The rhythm then intensified with the Dan Dan Noodles with Minced Pork, Sea Cucumber, and Yibin Pickled Mustard Greens, served in a generous clay pot. The noodles, perfectly coated in a spicy, slightly oily Sichuan-style sauce, were enhanced by flavorful minced pork. The sea cucumber contributed a silky texture, while the pickled mustard greens brought a tangy note that balanced the dish's richness.
The sweet finale unfolded in three creations. The Mango Cream Egg with Sago Pearls and White Chocolate, served in an intact eggshell, revealed a velvety, fresh cream atop mango and pomelo, striking a delicate balance between tropical sweetness and lively brightness. The Jing Yan Ice Cream with Glutinous Rice Balls, Peanuts, and Brown Sugar offered a comforting contrast between the lightly salted ice cream and the soft Ye Er Ba, enriched by warm brown sugar and crunchy peanuts. Finally, the Brown Sugar Jelly with Peanuts, Raisins, and Pomelo revisited the famous Sichuan Ice Jelly in a light, floral, tangy version, enhanced with yuzu and sakura petals. A meal of remarkable coherence, alternating finesse, creativity, elevated traditions, and flavors deeply rooted in contemporary Chinese culture.
My Opinion
Sui Tang Li stands out as a place where Chinese tradition is expressed with modernity and precision, elevated by the refinement of Upper House Shanghai. Chef Tony's cuisine, rooted in his heritage yet open to the world, orchestrates a remarkably coherent meal, blending creativity, technical skill, and sensitivity. In this serene setting, each dish finds its place within a fluid and elegant gastronomic narrative, making this restaurant an essential stop for anyone wishing to discover contemporary Chinese cuisine full of mastery and soul.
Practical Information
A big thank you to Sui Tang Li Shanghai for the invitation to discover their establishment. Of course, I remain fully free in the opinions expressed in this article!
