Haute Cuisine and Heritage at Epona, a Gem of the InterContinental Lyon
In Lyon, a city of tradition and gastronomy, few places blend historical heritage and contemporary luxury as elegantly as the InterContinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu. Behind the majestic façade of the former hospital, boldly and respectfully reimagined, lies a hushed world where monumental architecture, refined design, and exceptional culinary experiences intertwine. It is in this unique setting that the restaurant Epona showcases its craft, balancing nods to Lyon's heritage with creative flair. We had the privilege of enjoying an inspired dinner in the tranquil garden of Cour Saint-Louis, guided by the cuisine of Chef Mathieu Charrois and the sweet creations of Vincent Thomassin.
InterContinental Lyon, A Historic Gem In The Heart Of The City
Located at the heart of the Grand Hôtel-Dieu, one of Lyon's most iconic landmarks, the InterContinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu represents luxury hospitality excellence in the capital of Gaul. This monumental building, with its 360-meter-long façade along the Rhône and crowned by the spectacular dome designed by Soufflot, underwent a major renovation between 2013 and 2019, becoming the largest private restoration of a listed site in France. Inside, the decor by Jean-Philippe Nuel subtly combines contemporary refinement with monastic heritage, creating a setting that is both solemn and elegant. Spread over three levels, the 144 rooms and suites offer breathtaking views of the Rhône, the Basilica of Fourvière, or the building's peaceful heritage courtyards. We visited this prestigious venue to discover the Epona restaurant for an exceptional dinner.
Epona: Shared Cuisine In A Historic Setting
Located on the ground floor of the InterContinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu, Epona restaurant immediately charms with its light-filled dining room, lined with large windows and decorated in a style that is both understated and elegant. Its setting harmoniously blends the site's history—with its stone floor and wooden ceiling—with a contemporary aesthetic inspired by luxury brasseries. The space opens onto the Cour Saint-Louis, a true haven of peace adorned with a fountain and a majestic acacia tree, where the Epona Côté Jardin terrace unfolds during warmer days. This former medicinal garden turned green cloister offers a serene, timeless backdrop, ideal for extending the dining experience outdoors.
As for the concept, Epona highlights conviviality and sharing with a glass-walled open kitchen inviting guests to observe the team at work. The menu, punctuated with modern touches, showcases fresh, seasonal ingredients carefully selected each morning. Tableside service adds a theatrical and elegant flair, with beautiful cuts of meat or fish carved before guests. True to the spirit of the Gallic goddess it's named after—protector of riders and travelers—Epona is a welcoming place, deeply rooted in history yet open to the world.
Mathieu Charrois, The Culinary Soul Of Epona
At the helm of Epona's kitchen, Chef Mathieu Charrois offers a refined menu where Lyonnaise tradition meets contemporary creativity with precision. Trained by prominent figures like Michel Troisgros, Yannick Alléno, and Lionel Lévy, this culinary globetrotter—who has worked in Tahiti, Courchevel, Beirut, and London—settled in Lyon with a desire to reinterpret regional classics. His signature K'nelle, a nod to the Lyon quenelle, is a perfect example: a modernized version that stays true to its spirit, elevated by an unexpected crispy texture. Every dish is composed with precision and elegance, such as the smoked Arctic char or the sweetbreads with salsify, combining seasonal ingredients with bold pairings.
Echoing Chef Charrois' inventive cuisine, the dessert menu is crafted by talented pastry chef Vincent Thomassin. With a thematic and contemporary approach to pastry, he creates desserts that are both elegant and daring, playing with textures and flavors while maintaining perfect balance. His creations highlight carefully selected ingredients like chocolate, apple, peanut, or soy, which he works with technical precision and refined taste. Perfectly aligned with Epona's spirit, his desserts extend the culinary experience with finesse, creativity, and sophistication.
Our Refined Dinner In The Garden Of InterContinental Lyon
Though the set menus were tempting, we preferred to order à la carte, guided by our cravings. Seated in the enchanting garden of the restaurant, beneath the elegant arches of the Grand Hôtel-Dieu and bathed in soft light, we began the dinner with a glass of champagne—a sparkling prelude to this gourmet interlude.
For starters, I chose the confit mackerel, served in glistening thin slices, subtly enhanced with herbs and spices. It came with a delicate caramelized onion tart and a crisp fennel salad sprinkled with Kalamata olives. The dish was elegant and well-balanced—briny, smooth, and fresh—perfectly reflecting the chef's style. My husband opted for a foie gras terrine with thin slices of kiwi, bringing an unexpected fruity tartness. Alongside, a focaccia from Maison Pozzoli topped with crunchy hazelnuts and fresh herbs added texture, while a few drops of amaretto jelly wrapped everything in a gentle liqueur sweetness. A subtle and characterful starter.
For the mains, he chose the Charolais beef fillet, coated in a rich jus and accompanied by snow peas, a zesty watercress purée, and a smoky harissa with hints of apricot—mildly spicy and sweet. A roasted shallot added a soft, sweet note. I chose the octopus, perfectly seared, with tender flesh and a beautifully caramelized skin. It was surrounded by boldly flavored garnishes: caramelized yogurt, 'nduja purée, black olive tapenade, and tiny mitraille potatoes. A vibrant, original, and expertly executed dish.
To end this meal with lightness and finesse, my husband chose the baba with Italicus, a floral and citrusy liqueur. The delightfully soft cake rested on a verbena cream, with cubes of white peach and almond shards adding refreshing depth. As for me, I indulged in a dessert based on apricot—poached with carrot and smoked over a barbecue. Served with a silky apricot cream, a rich carrot juice infused with Madagascan vanilla, granola, and crunchy hazelnuts, this fruity, plant-based dessert offered remarkable aromatic depth. A bold finale, reflecting the precision and inspiration of the entire dinner.
My Opinion
Nestled within a monument steeped in history, the experience at the InterContinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu and the Epona restaurant far exceeds the bounds of a traditional fine dining evening. Between the site's architectural elegance, a cuisine rooted in terroir yet full of inventiveness, and the serene atmosphere of the Cour Saint-Louis, every moment here resonates with rare intensity. Guided by the talents of Chef Mathieu Charrois and Pastry Chef Vincent Thomassin, this Lyon address stands out as a must for anyone seeking refined cuisine in a setting of exceptional heritage.
Practical Information
A big thank you to Epona for inviting us to discover their establishment. Of course, I remain fully free in the opinions expressed in this article!
