La Bonne Étape, The Charm Of A Family-Run Inn In The Land Of Lavender
Nestled in a landscape where lavender fields stretch across the horizon and characterful villages watch over from their hilltops, this historic house invites guests to immerse themselves in a Provence that has remained true to its roots. Here, nature offers a daily spectacle, while an 18th-century former coaching inn, patiently transformed over generations, presents a refined and sincere art of living. Each stay becomes an encounter with a terroir rich in flavours, know-how and traditions, in a setting where the charm of ancient stone blends with the generosity of a family welcome.
Between Lavender Fields And Characterful Villages
Located in the heart of the Alpes de Haute Provence, between Sisteron and Manosque, La Bonne Étape benefits from an exceptional environment where lavender fields, gentle hills and majestic peaks come together. This former 18th-century coaching inn, transformed into an elegant Relais & Châteaux hotel, invites guests to savour the tranquillity and authenticity of a preserved Provence. Nearby, visitors can explore iconic sites such as the Sisteron citadel, the Valensole plateau, the Verdon Gorges or the hilltop villages of the Luberon, while enjoying countless activities offered by the surrounding nature.
A Family Heritage For Five Generations
For over a century, La Bonne Étape has told the story of a passionate family and a place full of soul. This former coaching inn, acquired in 1919 by the great-grandparents of the Gleize family, has been transformed over generations into a warm inn and then a renowned hotel-restaurant. From Gabrielle and Jean Rey, farmers and innkeepers, to their descendants, each has contributed to shaping the unique identity of this house. Gabrielle, an emblematic figure, preserved the flavours of the land with her traditional dishes, recipes that are still enjoyed today at Bistrot Gaby, in homage to her roots.
The meeting of Pierre Gleize, a confectioner by trade, and Arlette Rey, daughter of Gabrielle and Jean, marked a decisive turning point. From their union was born Jany Gleize who, after enriching his know-how around the world, returned to perpetuate the family tradition alongside his daughter Jane. Together, they continue the work of their ancestors by offering an authentic experience where Provençal cuisine blends with the refinement of their Michelin-starred table since 1964. A member of Relais & Châteaux since 1971, La Bonne Étape today embodies an art of living where each stay is an invitation to discover the soul and flavours of Provence.
A Junior Suite Where Tradition Meets Elegance
The rooms and suites offer a subtle balance between old-world charm and modern touches, with period furniture combined with some contemporary pieces. Each of the 18 keys reveals a unique character and carefully crafted decor, true to the Provençal spirit of the house. We stayed in a Junior Suite of about 35 m², which offered a large space including a lounge and bedroom, as well as a bathroom with bathtub. From its windows, we admired a soothing view of the gardens and surrounding hills, an enchanting setting that perfectly reflects the spirit of this family address.
A Gentle And Flavourful Awakening
The breakfast at La Bonne Étape is a true moment of indulgence, where generosity and the quality of the products take centre stage. Served in the Bistrot Gaby dining room or in-room as desired, it consists of a wide assortment: fresh pastries, varied breads, homemade butters and jams, fruit salad, cereals, yoghurts, and a fine selection of cakes made by the pastry chef. Cold cuts, cheeses and eggs prepared on request complete this continental breakfast, accompanied by local fruit juices and a choice of hot drinks. A tasty moment to start the day well in the heart of Provence.
Gastronomy As A Family Heritage
Gastronomy takes centre stage, where Jany Gleize, a child of the region and heir to this family house, has passionately celebrated the flavours of Haute-Provence. At the helm of the Michelin-starred restaurant “La Bonne Étape”, he offered for years a refined author's cuisine inspired by his grandmother Gabrielle's recipes and enhanced by produce from the vegetable garden, as well as carefully selected meats and fish. Today, it is his daughter Jane who takes over in the kitchen, continuing this heritage while bringing her sensitivity and vision. The Bistrot Gaby pays tribute to the authenticity of simple and tasty bistro cuisine, where casseroles, gratins and salads recall Gabrielle's simmered dishes, once prepared with produce from the family farm.
Jany Gleize's career reflects his deep attachment to culinary tradition and his constant quest for perfection. After training with great masters such as Jo Rostang, the Troisgros brothers, Alain Chapel and Michel Guérard, he returned to Château-Arnoux to take over La Bonne Étape in 1981. Between the stove and his teams, he now shares his know-how with Jane while continuing to represent French gastronomy at prestigious festivals and events around the world.
Our Starred Dinner
Our dinner was a true gastronomic journey, an immersion into the heart of Provence's flavours, where each dish told a story, that of a terroir sublimated by tradition and inventiveness. It all began with a succession of appetisers that honoured local products with elegance and subtlety. We discovered a revisited socca, fine and crispy, topped with anchovies and enhanced with a touch of black olive: a refined nod to southern traditions. Alongside it, a light and fragrant vegetable broth gently awakened the palate, while other delicate bites, built around local produce, extended this first gourmet moment. This delicate prelude was accompanied by a glass of champagne, bringing a sparkling and festive note.
The meal continued with a dish as poetic in presentation as it was delicious: the Durance Pebble with Banon cheese and génépi gel. This smooth, shiny pebble, inspired by stones polished by the river, concealed a creamy heart of Banon cheese, whose milky sweetness was delicately lifted by a drizzle of génépi gel. The slightly bitter herbal note added complexity and freshness. Homemade bread, fleur de sel and olive oil perfected this sensory pairing. This dish paired beautifully with an Originelle Mondeuse Blanche from Domaine Philippe Grisard, a rare white wine from Savoie with subtle aromas of flowers and lemon.
In a similarly springlike vein, the Awakening, a murmur of peas under a breeze of mint, enchanted with its intense green, frothy velouté. The peas expressed all their sweetness, enhanced by the delicate freshness of the mint. A vegetable sorbet and a crisp element completed this light, fresh and lively plate. The tasting continued with Vegetables in a radish robe, spirit of the garrigue, a very elegant plate where thin, translucent slices of radish wrapped subtly seasoned vegetables. The whole was sublimated by a reduced jus evoking the intoxicating aromas of garrigue herbs, while shoots and fresh herbs added aromatic relief that celebrated Provence at its purest.
Next came the cod brandade, tangy bursts, a dish with refined plating that played on the balance between the softness of a lightly smoked hake brandade, the freshness of finely diced raw fish tartare and the liveliness of tangy touches of pickles and mustard seeds. A dish that delighted with its play of textures and flavours.
To mark a refreshing pause, Magalie's sorbet, wine-based, was served in a frosted glass on a silver tray. Light and thirst-quenching, it offered a moment of purity and delicacy, ideal to prepare the palate for the rest of the feast. The moment of great flavours arrived with the roasted lamb seared over a fierce flame, accompanied by a Châteauneuf-du-Pape "Télégramme" 2021 from the Brunier family, a generous red with notes of ripe fruit and spices, perfect to support the richness of the dish. The meat, pink and perfectly caramelised, was accompanied by a vegetable flan topped with a crispy lace, a melting ravioli and a tasty quenelle, illustrating all the know-how of La Bonne Étape's kitchens.
The cheese trolley extended this experience with a remarkable selection: fresh and matured goat's cheeses, pressed and blue cheeses, washed-rind and local specialities, some even produced in the village. Dried fruits, jams and honey accompanied this platter for a generous and authentic tasting.
The sweet part opened with the White Soufflé and cocoa rain, an airy and indulgent dessert where the lightness and freshness of a vanilla ice cream quenelle met the intensity of a melting chocolate sauce. The 2019 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise from Domaine des Bernardins, with aromas of candied fruit and honey, complemented this sweetness elegantly. To conclude in style, the lavender honey ice cream in its hive charmed with its play of textures and spectacular presentation: a smooth ice cream delicately flavoured with lavender, sheltered under a fine cage of spun caramel. The mignardises trolley, a true garden of delights, finally offered one last moment of pleasure: shiny truffles, mini fruit tarts, herbal sweets and other artisanal creations, served in a setting of foliage and flowers, for a gourmet finale as generous, refined and unforgettable as the meal itself.
Provençal Strolls And Moments Of Relaxation
La Bonne Étape invites guests to extend the experience well beyond the table by offering a charming setting conducive to relaxation and discovery. As soon as the fine weather arrives, the heated outdoor pool, open from April to September, becomes a true haven of peace. Surrounded by loungers and beautifully laid out to enjoy sunbathing or a refreshing swim, it promises moments of tranquillity under the Provençal sky.
But what truly marked our stay was the visit to the “Jean Rey” English garden in the company of Jany Gleize himself. Passionate and generous, he guided us through this 6,000 m² organic vegetable garden where heirloom varieties, vegetables, herbs, flowers and fruits grow together in a joyful, perfectly managed disorder. Between anecdotes, cultivation secrets and explanations on respectful farming practices, this walk among the scents and colours of Provence was a real moment of sharing and authenticity, true to the soul of the house.
My Opinion
La Bonne Étape offered us an experience of rare intensity, where gastronomic excellence harmoniously combines with the discreet charm of a family house. Every moment, from the starred dinner to the walks in the garden, revealed an authentic and refined art of living, driven by passion and know-how handed down from generation to generation. In this exceptional place, Provence reveals its finest attributes: a terroir sublimated on the plate, enchanting landscapes to contemplate from the suite, and a sincere welcome that touches the heart. A unique stay, leaving the lasting impression of a pause where time stands still in the service of pleasure and elegance.
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Practical Information
A big thank you to La Bonne Étape for the invitation to discover their establishment. Of course, I remain free in my comments in this article!
