La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise: When Czech Tradition Meets Contemporary Boldness
A few steps from the cobbled streets of the Old Town, La Dégustation Bohême Bourgeoise reveals a world where the soul of Czech tradition blends with refined modernity. Between gilded ceilings, a glass-walled wine cellar, and contemporary chandeliers, every detail of the décor invites exploration. In this elegant setting, Oldřich Sahajdák orchestrates a reimagined Central European cuisine, driven by the seasons, the land, and uncompromising creativity. Here, the meal becomes a story: a succession of moments where past and present converse on the plate, offering guests a sensory immersion into the heart of Czech gastronomic heritage.
Between Czech Tradition And Contemporary Elegance
Housed in a historic Czech building in the heart of Prague's Old Town, La Dégustation Bohême Bourgeoise creates a subtle dialogue between tradition and modernity: sparkling gilded ceilings, a vitrified wine cellar, and contemporary crystal chandeliers from Consomé – inspired by soup bones – exude understated elegance. The L-shaped dining room opens onto a fully visible kitchen, the venue's true jewel, with its tiled grid extending across the floor and onto the menu. The materials tell the story of the land: solid oak flooring from Count Kinský's estate, cast basalt slabs in the kitchen, cast-iron tables with mushroom-shaped legs, wooden tops inlaid with tree rings, and chairs upholstered in cowhide. Designed by the Olgoj Chorchoj studio, the whole space celebrates Czech craftsmanship, its roots, and its landscape.
Czech Culinary Heritage Reimagined
At La Dégustation Bohême Bourgeoise, Central European cuisine is reimagined, drawing from Austro-Hungarian heritage and Czech traditions while embracing influences from French gastronomy, to which its name pays homage. The tasting menu, unique in the Czech Republic when it opened in 2006, follows a rhythm dictated by the seasons and the land, with 99% of the ingredients sourced from producers within a 250-kilometer radius of Haštalské náměstí. Only a few iconic products, such as truffles or sweetbreads, come from further afield, in echo of the country's culinary history. Inspired by the 19th-century cookbook *École de cuisine* by Marie B. Svobodová, the team creatively revisits old recipes and techniques while preserving the soul of the dishes and artisanal know-how, earning the restaurant a Michelin star.
The experience is complemented by meticulous work on pairings, whether wine-based or alcohol-free. The cellar showcases wines from small European producers who share the restaurant's philosophy: respect for the vine, minimal intervention in the cellar, and natural fermentation to reveal the terroir, vintage, and winemaker's personality. The sommeliers select each bottle according to the dishes, whether prestigious crus or rare finds, and also offer artisanal ciders, beers, and spirits. The alcohol-free pairings, elevated to the level of culinary art, are crafted from local fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices: cucumber and gooseberry, carrot and young peas, smoked onion, or sage with apple and toasted poppy seeds. This refined and innovative approach strengthens the venue's identity: a living tribute to tradition, enriched by creativity and a direct connection to nature.
Oldřich Sahajdák's Culinary Vision
Passionate and visionary, Oldřich Sahajdák traded his dreams of football for the chef's jacket he inherited from his parents. After an initial experience in Germany, he joined the Ambiente group, taking part in the opening of Potrefená husa before becoming executive chef and helping develop new concepts across the group's restaurants. His travels in New Zealand, Italy, and Portugal broadened his vision, while his growing interest in Czech cuisine took shape at Café Savoy and at the Culinary Institute of America. It was there that a visit to the prestigious The French Laundry by Thomas Keller sparked the idea of bringing this level of excellence to Czech gastronomy, leading to the creation of La Dégustation Bohême Bourgeoise in 2006. Awarded a Michelin star in 2012, the chef embodies the soul of the place: an tireless explorer of old recipe books, a skilled finder of producers, and a craftsman of cuisine where heritage and refinement intertwine.
A Tasting Shaped By Seasons And Flavors
That evening, we chose to be guided by a unique multi-course menu, accompanied by an alcohol-free pairing crafted with the same precision as the cuisine. A gastronomic journey that began with finesse, with a glass of Bourgeois-Diaz BD'3C champagne awakening the palate and accompanying the amuse-bouches, which opened the evening with elegance and whimsy. The beef tartare, delicately seasoned and served in a floral bowl, revealed all the finesse of the meat. Alongside it, a vivid green cucumber juice brought refreshing herbal brightness. Then came the “lick the plate” course – bold and minimalist – inviting diners to break the rules with a colorful preparation enjoyed directly from the plate. A refined and playful introduction, setting the stage for the flavors to come.
The first act of the menu spotlighted cauliflower, transformed into a creamy and indulgent creation evoking nostalgic comfort. Paired with a soft egg and the toasted sweetness of hazelnut, it gained depth from a delicate grated cloud that played with contrasting textures. The alcohol-free pairing, a floral union of elderflower and macerated apple juice, highlighted the subtlety and roundness of the dish.
The journey continued with trout, cooked at low temperature to retain its tenderness, accompanied by crisp green asparagus and a pea emulsion. A fine golden tuile added crunch, while the alcohol-free pairing of sea buckthorn and roasted pumpkin juice balanced vegetal freshness with gentle caramelized sweetness.
Next came rabbit, prepared schnitzel-style: breaded, golden, crispy on the outside and tender inside. It was served over a creamy sauce brightened by wild garlic, with vegetal notes of cabbage. The alcohol-free pairing of toasted buckwheat and pear married the grain's roasted, smoky flavors with the pear's fruity sweetness for a harmonious, original result.
Beef then took the stage, tender and flavorful, enhanced by the umami depth of mushrooms. A translucent kohlrabi veil added crisp freshness that contrasted with the sauce's intensity, which was glossy and accented with herbal touches. Crispy shards brought an extra dimension, while the alcohol-free pairing of blackcurrant and grape juice answered the dish's richness with fruity, tangy, and slightly tannic notes.
For dessert, strawberry appeared in a creamy texture, sprinkled with frosted shards that added crunch and freshness. Yogurt, served as a light mousse and frozen pieces, harmonized with the floral sweetness of honey. A sparkling grape juice completed the ensemble with its fine bubbles and fruity aromas, prolonging the brightness of the flavors. To end the meal, the mignardises offered a final indulgent note: a thin wafer filled with cherry purée, a soft pancake, an airy marshmallow, and a tangy rhubarb candy, leaving a lively and refreshing finish on the palate.
My Opinion
La Dégustation Bohême Bourgeoise stands out as a must-visit address where every detail, from the décor to the plate, celebrates the richness of Czech heritage while placing it within elegant modernity. Under Oldřich Sahajdák's leadership, tradition becomes alive, inventive, and deeply connected to its terroir, carried by precise and bold flavor pairings, whether wine-based or alcohol-free. More than just a meal, the experience unfolds as a sensory journey where history, nature, and craftsmanship meet to offer a rare and memorable immersion into the heart of Central European gastronomy.
Practical Information
Many thanks to La Dégustation Bohême Bourgeoise for the invitation to discover their establishment. Of course, I remain free to express my own opinions in this article!
