Sühring: German Culinary Haute Couture in the Heart of Bangkok
In the heart of Bangkok, in an elegant villa surrounded by greenery, twin brothers Thomas and Mathias Sühring brilliantly reinvent German cuisine. Since 2016, their Michelin two-starred restaurant has celebrated the flavors of their childhood through family recipes elevated with a contemporary touch. Between tradition and modernity, precision and playfulness, Sühring embodies sincere and refined hospitality, where every detail — from glassware to plate — reflects a personal vision of European gastronomy.
A Gastronomic Villa in the Heart of Bangkok
Set in a stylish 1970s modernist villa nestled in the heart of a lush tropical garden, Sühring charms with its unique atmosphere, both warm and refined. The restaurant, designed like a guesthouse, features several distinct spaces, each offering a different ambiance — from the intimate hush of the Living Room to the vibrant conviviality of the Kitchen. The latter, with its open counter facing the bustling kitchen, offers a full immersion into the chefs' craft, while the sunlit Glass House invites romantic moments overlooking the garden. The layout, blending cozy lounges with lively dining rooms, creates a subtle balance between tranquility and energy, turning each dinner into an immersive and deeply human experience.
The Sühring Brothers' Spirit, Between Heritage and Creation
At Sühring, high-end German cuisine boldly and delicately makes its way to the heart of Bangkok. Guided by a unique vision, twin brothers Mathias and Thomas Sühring reinterpret childhood classics with a modern twist, without ever betraying the soul of their culinary heritage. Bismarck herring, currywurst, spätzle or Brötzeit are reinvented in refined compositions, at times playful, at times poetic, where every bite reveals expert techniques — fermentation, pickling, or curing — and a perfect showcase of seasonal ingredients. This deeply personal and creative approach materializes in the Erlebnis tasting menu, a true sensory journey through the flavors and memories of a contemporary and emotional Germany.
Awarded two Michelin stars since 2018 and member of the Relais & Châteaux association, Sühring stands out with a signature cuisine that is both elegant and accessible, driven by dual expertise. Trained at the finest European establishments, the brothers imbue their table with a spirit that is cosmopolitan yet firmly rooted in their origins. Far from rigid, their cuisine is alive, ever-evolving, in constant dialogue with seasonality and inspirations gathered from their travels. This subtle balance of tradition and innovation, executed in a contemporary and welcoming setting, makes Sühring a unique destination in Asia — a rare ambassador of modern German gastronomy.
When German Tradition Becomes Culinary Haute Couture
We began the tasting menu with a glass of Riesling Brut from German house Griesel & Compagnie. This wine delights with its lively freshness, fine bubbles, and elegant citrus and white fruit aromas — a light and airy opening to accompany the first bites. The first amuse-bouche, as elegant as it was delicately plated, paired the sweetness of leek with the aromatic intensity of truffle, all elevated by a sculptural presentation worthy of a work of art. Next came a fine tartlet combining the tenderness of scallop with the sweetness of pumpkin and the iodine notes of kelp, creating a subtle land-and-sea harmony.
Then, a refined nod to northern Germany: a reimagined Brathering — fried and marinated herring — stood out with the liveliness of mustard, the freshness of pickles, and a delicate floral touch. This popular dish was transformed into an elegant, nuanced version. Another tribute to the port traditions of the north, Labskaus was boldly reinterpreted. This rustic dish of salted beef, beetroot, potato, and herring was adorned with caviar and presented with remarkable precision, offering a luxurious and striking take. The Enleta then surprised with its appearance: a trompe-l'œil evoking a snack food, but hiding a refined creation. Foie gras was sandwiched between two chocolate wafers, served with a house-made vinegar of honey, apricot and vanilla, creating a playful contrast between familiar form and complex flavor — a perfect reflection of Sühring's refined yet mischievous spirit.
We then opted for a non-alcoholic pairing, just as inventive. The first glass, a kombucha of mint, turmeric, quince and dill, accompanied a delicate dish of king crab and caviar. The sweet crab meat combined with the briny caviar in a subtly balanced composition, rounded out with a creamy sauce and adorned with edible flowers — a plate as refined visually as it was in taste.
Bread and butter were then served, marking a gourmet pause before the next courses.
We continued with a superbly executed game pâté en croûte. Inclusions of fresh parsley and pistachios added freshness, crunch, and aromatic complexity. The presentation, enhanced with young shoots and edible flowers, was paired with a jus made from Elstar apple, spiced with nutmeg, infused with vanilla and structured with a note of barley — evoking a gentle fermentation or natural maceration. A pairing full of character.
The next dish honored Arctic char, delicately cooked and covered with a clear Jerusalem artichoke-infused broth. Topped with fresh herbs, shoots and edible flowers, it was completed with a subtle horseradish grate, adding spice and freshness. Two crispy tartlets served on the side extended the tasting experience with a play on textures. The accompanying juice blended Stromberger plum, sour cherry, allspice and celery — a bold, slightly cloudy drink with fruity, spicy and vegetal notes, perfectly harmonizing with the fish's delicate saltiness.
Next came a perfectly cooked lobster medallion, draped in a velvety amber-hued sauce delicately scented with vanilla. A quenelle of purée topped with hazelnut cream, along with a crispy garnish reminiscent of caramelized hazelnut shards, added texture to the dish. The reddish-orange, slightly thick jus offered a vegetal, tangy composition made with Datterino tomatoes, thyme, rosemary and rhubarb — a welcome counterpoint to the lobster's sweetness.
Homemade Spätzle then took center stage, coated in a creamy sauce and generously covered with black Périgord truffle. The shavings released a captivating woody aroma, while green touches lightened the visual appeal. The golden-beige accompanying jus combined Williams pear, hazelnut, lemongrass and yuzu — a vibrant blend that balanced the richness of the dish beautifully.
Roast duck was then presented in its cast-iron cocotte, still steaming atop a bed of thyme. This presentation moment stirred curiosity before the precise carving. We could also choose our knife from a selection of exceptional pieces with German blades and fine wooden handles. The aged and perfectly roasted duck breast revealed juicy meat beneath a crispy skin. It was served with a medley of beetroot, cherry and coffee textures: intense purée, glossy sauce, confit elements, pearls or gel, and a crunchy croquette. The deep-red jus combined Pinot Noir, hibiscus, pepper and cinnamon — a rich, complex and refreshing marriage that enhanced the depth of the dish.
The first dessert spotlighted Mikan orange in the form of a vibrant sorbet set atop a creamy almond base. All bathed in a chamomile-infused coulis, blending acidity, roundness and floral sweetness in a composition of great finesse. The second dessert celebrated fresh, juicy strawberries, accompanied by rose sorbet, crushed meringue, crystallized petals and shards. Airy and poetic, this dessert married textures and floral aromas. The accompanying juice, complex and refreshing, combined pomegranate, cacao and shiso — a subtle counterpoint to the dish's sweetness.
Finally, the last plate paid tribute to the chefs' grandmother, whose recipe notebook sat open on the table. A chilled egg liqueur was served in small metal cups. The golden, fluffy madeleines evoked childhood snacks, while marbled chocolates and layered chocolate-covered petits fours recalled festive occasions. More than a dessert, it was a transmission of memories — an emotional conclusion to this sensory experience.
My Opinion
At Sühring, gastronomy becomes storytelling. Each dish, each sip, each gesture tells a personal tale rooted in German traditions and elevated by contemporary creativity. In this tropical setting in the heart of Bangkok, the Sühring brothers deliver a rare experience — intimate, daring, and deeply emotional — an exceptional culinary journey that leaves you touched, inspired, and slightly transformed.
Practical Information
Many thanks to Sühring for the invitation to discover their establishment. Of course, I remain free in my opinions expressed in this article!
