Located in the heart of the lively Chinatown district in Bangkok, Potong is an exceptional transformation of an old Sino-Portuguese residence into a sanctuary of haute cuisine, honored with numerous awards, including a Michelin star. This place celebrates the quintessence of Thai-Chinese cuisine, offering a modern and bold approach, beautifully highlighted by the unique fusion with historical architecture. Potong is not just a restaurant; it's an immersive experience that I invite you to explore with me.
A Culinary Escape in the Vibrant Chinatown District
The Potong restaurant is nestled in the heart of the vibrant Chinatown district, an area famous for its countless gold shops and traditional Chinese medicine vendors. Yaowarat Road is flanked by narrow alleys bustling with activity offering total immersion in the local hustle and bustle. Despite this bustle, from early evening, some alleys reveal a more peaceful atmosphere. It is in this maze of unexpected tranquility that Potong, a culinary gem promising an unforgettable experience, is found.
Potong: A Culinary Journey in a Centennial Sino-Portuguese House
Located in a historic Sino-Portuguese style building in the heart of Bangkok, Potong is a true time capsule transformed into a modern culinary space. This five-story building, which has gone through several generations, was the cradle of Chef Pam's family business of traditional Chinese medicine since 1910. Through a meticulous restoration project of two and a half years, each floor of the house has been carefully redesigned to merge the family heritage with Potong's contemporary vision, a word meaning 'simple' in reference to the chef's minimalist approach.
The first floor, once the showcase for the pharmacy, has transformed into Potong Sino Bar, a space where the charm of a century-old wooden ceiling is preserved. The second floor, previously dedicated to the preparation of medicines, is now the main dining room, characterized by charming ancient dividers and access to an outdoor balcony. The third floor transforms into a sanctuary for the ultimate culinary experience, with walls adorned with tiger paintings symbolizing wealth and success, where we had the pleasure of dining.
The fourth floor, which served as a relaxation and opium consumption area, has become the Opium Bar, inviting the tasting of delicious cocktails. The fifth floor, a family space for stargazing, now offers a refined selection of cocktails and wines, extending the magic of the evening.
The Star of Bangkok: Chef Pam and the Triumph of Potong
Chef Pam Utharntharm, with a rich Thai, Australian, and Chinese heritage, has charted a culinary journey as diverse as her origins. Having grown up in Bangkok, she then flew to the United States to hone her culinary talents under the tutelage of the renowned Jean-Georges, before achieving several accolades. Her return to Bangkok marks the beginning of Potong, a project that propelled her to the ranks of the country's most influential chefs.
As a young female chef, Pam broke glass ceilings by becoming the first to simultaneously receive Michelin Thailand's Opening of the Year award and a Michelin star for Potong. This double honor celebrates not only the successful opening of Potong but also its innovative tasting concept and its impact on the local culinary scene.
Potong also made a notable entry at the 35th place of the 50 Best Restaurants in Asia in 2023 and also rose to the extended list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World the same year. A true success!
The Potong Experience in 20 Steps
Our culinary journey began upon our arrival on the first floor, where the essence of the Potong concept was unveiled to us. Our first stop was marked by a refreshing glass of kombucha, a perfect preamble before heading to the top of the establishment. There, the first act of our 20-step tasting menu opened with a glass of wine selected from local vintages, accompanied by a selection of finely selected charcuteries, setting the stage for a convivial atmosphere and gently awakening our appetite.
The descent to the dining room was an invitation to discover a space imbued with charm. There, the ballet of dishes began, introduced by exquisite appetizers mixing chicken and Chinese herbs, followed by a dish paying tribute to the banana exploited in all its forms, emphasizing a zero-waste approach. The continuation was a praise of crab, presented in an artistically enhanced shell for a presentation that was both modern and delicate.
The highlight of this experience was undoubtedly our immersion in Chef Pam's reinterpretation of pad thai. This contemporary and inventive version of the Thai classic was a revelation, concentrating in a single bite the essence of this traditional dish.
The fish segment turned out to be a real delight, with a broth enriched with abalone and oyster, followed by a local fish sublimated by Thai flavors, including coconut, offering a stunning taste harmony. Before continuing our culinary exploration, we had the unique opportunity to choose from a selection of chopsticks, with as much care and attention as one would for a steak knife, adding a personalized and refined touch to our experience. The tribute to duck followed, offered among others grilled and crispy, including the brain for the daring palates (which I preferred to observe from a distance), accompanied by pickles, eggplants, and other vegetables typical of Southeast Asia, as well as skillfully seasoned fried rice. The option to add a wagyu beef dish was seized, and it proved to be a pure delight.
The sweet part of our adventure began with a refreshing pre-dessert that perfectly prepared our palate for the main dessert, centered on corn. This original creation, both indulgent and light, brought an exquisite conclusion to our meal. Our evening ended on a sweet note with elegant petits fours arranged on a trolley, before choosing a fortune cookie, a charming nod to Chinese tradition, promising a maxim or prediction for the future.
Regarding beverages, Potong's cellar reveals a collection of rare and unique wines from 15 different countries, promising exceptional food and wine pairings. The range of kombuchas offered by Potong, which we enthusiastically opted for, complemented this culinary experience remarkably, leaving us fully satisfied.
Speakeasy Atmosphere and End of Evening at the Opium Bar
Nestled on the 4th floor of the building, the Opium Bar is a sanctuary of sophistication where the past meets the present in a vibrant celebration of mixology. This intimate space, evoking the opulence of New York bars and the nightlife ambiance of Bangkok's Chinatown, offers the perfect setting for an aperitif before dinner or cocktails later in the evening. Meticulously crafted, the menu underscores their commitment to the art of cocktail making. Each drink is the result of a careful creative process, where modifiers, flavors, colorants, syrups, and garnishes are made in-house to capture the very essence of each ingredient.
Mr. chose the Elegantissimo, an award-winning cocktail skillfully blending Flor de Caña 12 years, opium coffee & coconut vermouth, and banana liqueur, while I preferred the Let It Be, a tasty mix of Pisco, mango, kalamansi, and honey. All served in the sophisticated setting of a speakeasy, perfect for adding a touch of refinement to the end of our evening.
My Review
It is undeniable that we were completely conquered by this Michelin-starred restaurant in Bangkok. This establishment embodies a true gastronomic journey, gracefully combining the splendor and meticulous restoration of an ancestral home, the cradle of Chef Pam's talent, with the creativity and culinary boldness of this remarkable chef who has captivated general admiration since the opening of Potong. I cannot stress enough the importance of visiting this enchanting place for anyone seeking an exceptional culinary experience in Bangkok.
Practical Information
A big thank you to Potong for the invitation to discover their establishment. Of course, I remain free to express my thoughts in this article!
About Florence Consul
Editor of Experiences Luxe since 2015, I love discovering new exclusive and authentic experiences all over the world. I left my home country (France) 6 years ago to become a global citizen, traveling 365 days out of the year. I am a foodie person and I make a point of tasting local specialities.