At the heart of Tokyo, Esterre stands out as a gem where French haute cuisine meets Japanese excellence. A result of a partnership between DUCASSE Paris and the talented chef Kei Kojima, this Michelin-starred restaurant celebrates the richness of local terroir through sublime creations. Inspired by nature, Esterre reinvents the codes of gastronomy in a setting of refined elegance, where every detail, from design to the dishes, embodies perfect harmony. Step into a world where art, flavors, and beauty merge for an unforgettable experience.
Views of the Imperial Gardens: Palace Hotel Tokyo, a Rare Luxury
Palace Hotel Tokyo epitomizes the essence of discreet luxury and Japanese elegance. Located near the Imperial Palace gardens, this iconic hotel is an oasis in the bustling Marunouchi district. Interiors, dressed in natural tones and inspired by the surrounding splendor, offer a warm yet sophisticated setting, while most rooms feature private balconies, a rare privilege in Tokyo. With a range of restaurants and bars and Japan’s first evian SPA, Palace Hotel Tokyo is an unmissable destination for travelers seeking serenity and prestige. Among its exceptional dining options, Esterre, where we had the pleasure of dining, offers a unique gastronomic experience blending creativity and refinement in an unmatched design setting.
A Masterpiece of Nature-Inspired Design
The interior design of Esterre is a masterful celebration of harmony between humans and nature, conceptualized by the SIMPLICITY studio led by the talented Shinichiro Ogata. Inspired by the continuous and circular flow of life, the space is crafted in earthy tones and authentic materials such as washi paper, textiles, wood, and clay. This approach, subtly blending tradition and modernity, creates a soothing and immersive atmosphere.
Washi paper, derived from plants, plays a central role in the restaurant's aesthetics. This choice also reflects a commitment to sustainability, strengthening the connection between the space, nature, and its visitors. The washi-covered walls, delicately adorned with seasonal flora-inspired artwork by Morison Kobayashi, add a poetic dimension to the decor.
The restaurant layout, from its narrow entrance that opens to a bright room, is designed to highlight a spectacular view of the Imperial Palace gardens. The large windows transform this view into a dynamic element of the dining experience. The changing landscape, influenced by time of day and seasons, becomes a living canvas accompanying each meal. This deep connection to nature is enhanced by carefully designed lighting, hidden within an ovoid structure covered in gold leaf, diffusing a soft and warm glow without obstructing the view.
The furniture reflects particular attention to detail. The “Saint James” chairs by Jean Nouvel, upholstered in earth-colored leather custom-designed for Esterre, harmoniously integrate with the space. Organic-shaped wooden elements subtly divide areas while maintaining visual fluidity.
Finally, every detail of the table demonstrates profound respect for Japanese craftsmanship. Washi paper plates, Arita-yaki porcelain, foldable tin pieces, and hand-carved butter knives are more than utensils; they embody the soul of Japan. Esterre offers more than a meal—it provides total immersion in a universe where art, nature, and design converge to create an unforgettable experience.
Where Nature and Creativity Unite at Esterre
Michelin-starred in the Tokyo Guide 2025, Esterre embodies a contemporary vision of French haute cuisine in partnership with DUCASSE Paris. Opened in November 2019, this refined restaurant marries the elegance of French culinary techniques with the authenticity of Japan's finest produce. Staying true to Alain Ducasse’s philosophy, Esterre celebrates local terroir by showcasing exceptional ingredients, such as Kamakura vegetables and fruits, prepared with creativity that honors their natural essence. Inspired by nature, Esterre—literally ‘mother earth’ in Occitan—reinvents the roles of grains, vegetables, and fruits, giving them a central place in each culinary creation.
From France to Japan: The Starry Path of Kei Kojima
Kei Kojima, Esterre’s head chef, is an iconic figure in Franco-Japanese gastronomy. Born in Tokyo in 1964 and raised in Kamakura, Kojima began his career in France in 1988, training under culinary legends such as Michel Guérard, Alain Chapel, and Pierre Gagnaire. His collaboration with Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV in Monaco, where he worked as sous-chef for three years, solidified his expertise in French haute cuisine.
Upon returning to Japan, he brilliantly led Beige Alain Ducasse Tokyo, earning two Michelin stars for eight consecutive years. In 2023, he took over Esterre. Faithful to Alain Ducasse’s philosophy, Kojima elevates local Japanese produce using French techniques, with a particular focus on pure and natural flavors. Based in Kamakura, he visits the local market every morning to select the freshest ingredients, transforming them into elegant creations that blend sustainability with refinement.
A Sensory Tribute in a Gastronomic Jewel
Comfortably seated in the restaurant's sumptuous dining room, we begin our experience with a glass of non-alcoholic sparkling wine, savoring it while browsing the menu and contemplating our choices. We opt for the “Carte” menu, which includes an appetizer, two main courses, a dessert, and coffee or tea. After placing our order, amuse-bouches arrive, perfectly illustrating Esterre’s culinary philosophy: a celebration of seasonal vegetables, artistically crafted into savory bites that awaken the senses.
The experience is distinguished by unique service: Esterre offers two types of homemade organic bread, presented tableside on a charming cart. These warm breads are an absolute delight. The artisanal Hokkaido butter, rich and incredibly creamy, adds an extra touch of luxury to this simple yet essential gastronomic tradition.
The meal begins with a refined appetizer: delicately poached Maguro tuna, revealing a tender and silky texture. Seasonal mushrooms provide earthy notes that balance the fish’s freshness. A subtle touch of marmalade enhances the dish with gentle sweetness and a hint of acidity, making each bite as complex as it is delicious.
For the first main course, I choose Matsukawa turbot, a rare and noble fish, perfectly cooked to preserve its firm texture and delicate flavor. It is accompanied by a shrimp-stuffed potato, whose sweetness and melting texture harmonize beautifully with a nori-infused jus, delivering subtle and balanced marine flavors. My husband opts for the blue lobster, a dish both visually stunning and delicious. Herb-printed pasta sheets add originality and lightness, while crunchy, colorful seasonal vegetables perfectly complement the richness of the lobster. A creamy, slightly briny coral sauce elegantly ties the elements together.
We continue with the meal’s centerpiece: veal, accompanied by red gourd and walnut, and paired with black fig. The veal, perfectly cooked to preserve its tenderness and natural flavors, harmonizes beautifully with the sweetness of the gourd and the nutty richness of the walnut. The black fig adds a touch of subtle sweetness, elevating this dish to a moment of pure indulgence.
Before dessert, we succumb to the irresistible French cheese platter, carefully curated to offer a perfect balance of textures and flavors. Certain rare aged varieties stand out, making this stage truly memorable. A refreshing pre-dessert prepares us for the grand finale: rum baba, generously soaked and served with lightly scented cream. This classic dessert, elegantly revisited, is absolutely indulgent.
To conclude, we enjoy Japanese green tea with subtle notes, though the restaurant also offers a custom-made herbal tea. The cart of fresh herbs provides a unique experience where each infusion is prepared before the guests’ eyes, adding a theatrical touch to this exceptional dinner.
Esterre’s menu evolves with the seasons, as does the wine list curated by Palace Hotel Tokyo’s award-winning Chef Sommelier, Takamasa Sato. The impressive wine cellar features gems ranging from French grands crus to organic and natural selections, housing some 4,800 bottles and over 500 vintages.
My Opinion
The Michelin-starred Esterre represents a rare and precious form of luxury where apparent simplicity reveals infinite sophistication. Every detail, from the breathtaking views of the Imperial Gardens to the thoughtfully designed space and dishes infused with creativity and respect for ingredients, contributes to a deeply immersive experience. Esterre not only elevates French cuisine with Japanese touches but also transforms culinary art into a true homage to nature. For me, this culinary journey was far more than a meal—it was a sensory voyage, an enchanting interlude where time seemed to stand still. An exceptional destination that I wholeheartedly recommend!
Practical Information
A big thank you to Esterre for inviting us to discover their establishment. Of course, I remain free in my opinions in this article!
About Florence Consul
Editor of Experiences Luxe since 2015, I love discovering new exclusive and authentic experiences all over the world. I left my home country (France) 6 years ago to become a global citizen, traveling 365 days out of the year. I am a foodie person and I make a point of tasting local specialities.