Dubai: Exceptional Peruvian Dinner at La Mar by Gastón Acurio
Within the dazzling Atlantis The Royal, where every corner seems designed to amaze, La Mar by Gastón Acurio stands out as an exceptional gastronomic stop. Between sky and sea, this contemporary Peruvian restaurant masterfully blends refinement and generosity, marine traditions and creative daring. In this temple of flavor with influences from Lima, dinner becomes a true sensory immersion, carried by a spectacular setting and a cuisine bursting with freshness. Follow me as I explore this must-visit address, where the soul of Peru shines in all its splendor on Dubai's golden shores.
Atlantis The Royal: Dubai's Most Dazzling Complex
With its bold lines, spectacular lighting effects, and resolutely glamorous atmosphere, Atlantis The Royal embodies all of Dubai's extravagance. Nestled at the edge of Palm Jumeirah, this gem combines grandiose architecture, impeccable service, and extraordinary culinary experiences. Every detail—from luxury boutiques and dancing fountains to breathtaking views of the skyline and the gulf—contributes to making this hotel a unique place. A true temple of gastronomy, it houses 17 restaurants by the world's greatest chefs. Among these exceptional venues, we chose to dine at La Mar by Gastón Acurio, after experiencing Dinner by Heston Blumenthal the previous year (read the article here: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal: An Exceptional Gastronomic Journey in Dubai).
The Sea as a Source of Inspiration
La Mar's design successfully takes on the bold challenge of blending the laid-back elegance of a Peruvian fishing pier with the contemporary opulence of Atlantis The Royal. From the entrance, abundant natural light floods the restaurant's generous spaces, highlighting a palette of raw and noble materials: wood, stone, cement, and iron combine in subtle balance. The décor evokes the ocean depths through a sea-inspired color palette of turquoise blue, seaweed green, and sand grey. Tables are adorned with marine-themed details—stylized corals, shiny scales, sculpted rocks—while turquoise chairs recall the original Miami location. The ambiance is intentionally relaxed, while maintaining the refinement expected of such an establishment.
References to the Peruvian coastline are everywhere, from the convivial ceviche bar to the outdoor terrace overlooking the spectacular Skyblaze Fountain, where jets of water and flames rise in a hypnotic dance. Handcrafted works by Peruvian artists add poetic touches throughout the space: a large rope and wool tapestry by Cynthia Malamud welcomes guests inside, while porcelain installations and colorful suspended nets evoke the sea and fishing traditions. The whole creates a sensory immersion where every detail—from the décor to the textures—reflects La Mar's warm, maritime identity, harmoniously integrated into the exuberant and spectacular universe of Atlantis The Royal.
The Art of Elevating Peru's Flavors
La Mar by Gastón Acurio proudly celebrates the richness and diversity of Peruvian cuisine, bringing the festive and generous spirit of traditional cebicherías to the heart of Dubai. Faithful to Peru's cultural roots, the concept pays homage to a gastronomy shaped by the country's geographic diversity and the influence of many cultures. The menu features vibrant ceviches, flavorful tiraditos, grilled anticuchos in street food style, and refined dishes like Hokkaido scallops with caviar, criollo nigiri with flamed wagyu, or the unmissable lomo saltado criollo, a wok-sautéed beef dish. Each bite is an explosion of flavors, textures, and colors, reflecting the generosity of Peruvian traditions with a contemporary twist. The experience would not be complete without a cocktail menu, featuring the iconic Pisco Sour—a quintessential nod to the Peruvian way of life.
From Lima to Dubai: The Global Reach of Gastón Acurio
Behind La Mar's spirit is visionary chef Gastón Acurio, an iconic figure of contemporary Peruvian cuisine. Chef, author, and entrepreneur, he revolutionized his country's culinary scene by proudly placing it on the world's finest tables. Trained in Madrid and Paris, and a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, he opened the now-legendary Astrid & Gastón in Lima in 1994, paving the way for a constellation of international restaurants. With La Mar, he celebrates Peru's marine roots in a convivial setting that marries ancestral traditions and modern creativity. In Dubai, it's the talented Chef Andreé Núñez who brings this vision to life with impressive mastery. Originally from Arequipa and trained at Astrid & Gastón and the three-Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca, he now leads the kitchen at La Mar in Atlantis The Royal with boldness and passion, showcasing Peruvian culture through vibrant, generous, and deeply authentic dishes.
A Gourmet Ode to Contemporary Peru
Our dinner began with two iconic Peruvian beverages. The Pisco Sour, made with quebranta pisco, lime, sugar, and egg white, delivered a bold punch softened by a creamy foam. The Chicha Morada, a milder infusion of purple corn, apple, pineapple, and secret spices, offered a refreshing and aromatic alternative.
We started our appetizers with the Ceviche Clásico, a true pillar of Peruvian gastronomy. The catch of the day was marinated in a classic leche de tigre—zesty and tangy—accompanied by crispy corn, sweet potato, white corn, and finely sliced red onions. A dish that was both vibrant and balanced. In a more fusion style, the Nigiri Butter Miso showcased Hokkaido scallops, lightly torched, topped with miso butter and sprinkled with sesame. Each bite melted in the mouth, blending umami with briny sweetness.
We continued with the Empanadas de Carne—crispy on the outside and generously filled with MB7 wagyu beef sautéed in the lomo saltado style. They were served with a rocoto chili sauce that was creamy and spicy, and lime wedges to add a welcome touch of freshness. Then came the Conchitas La Mar, served in their pearly shells on a bed of pebbles—elegance in every detail. The scallops, topped with an aged parmesan foam, were elevated with grilled leche de tigre butter, crispy garlic, and a hint of caviar, creating a burst of marine flavors.
For the main course, we chose the Costillas de Cordero—perfectly grilled Australian lamb chops served with a smooth loche squash purée and a herb-infused “seco” sauce. Peruvian corn kernels and a bowl of white rice rounded out this generous and refined dish. The second dish, Pulpo a la Brasa, featured a perfectly grilled octopus tentacle served with Peruvian pesto purée made from cilantro and basil, and a Botija olive emulsion. A bowl of Arroz con Choclo—white rice with Peruvian corn—subtly complemented this delicious and visually striking plate.
To end the meal on a high note, we sampled two bold desserts. The Pistachos combined pistachio cream, ruby chocolate shards, tangy raspberry sorbet, and lemon biscuit crumble for a finish that was crunchy, creamy, and refreshing. Finally, the Pecanas—roasted sweet potato ice cream with molten caramel and a pecan-sesame tuile—brought a comforting and indulgent touch to this exceptional Peruvian dinner.
My Opinion
This dinner at La Mar by Gastón Acurio was a true revelation. In an elegant and bold setting, I discovered a Peruvian cuisine of incredible richness, skillfully blending tradition and modernity. Each dish surprised me with its balance, precision, and flavor intensity, while telling a story deeply rooted in the country's identity. The experience is all the more memorable as it unfolds within the spectacular universe of Atlantis The Royal, where every detail is designed to impress without ever compromising authenticity. A place I wholeheartedly recommend to anyone seeking a unique culinary journey in the heart of Dubai.
Practical Information
Many thanks to La Mar by Gastón Acurio for the invitation to discover their establishment. Of course, I remain fully free in the opinions expressed in this article!
