Whitegrass in Singapore: A Michelin-Starred Interlude Between France and Japan

When the Past Meets the Modern Art of Dining

At the heart of the historic CHIJMES site, the restaurant elegantly blends the venue’s heritage charm with a decidedly contemporary aesthetic, from carefully chosen fixtures to refined tableware and an intimate atmosphere. Designed to host everything from a discreet dinner for two to a business meeting or private celebration, it unfolds across three distinct spaces, each offering its own fitting ambiance. The circular dining room, bathed in natural light filtered through sheer curtains, charms with its chic yet warm character, enhanced by a beautiful floral centerpiece, a design-led chandelier, and colorful furnishings. Elsewhere, ornate wallpaper, marble tables, and armchairs create a more sophisticated setting, while a more relaxed area comfortably welcomes larger parties.

French Precision with the Breath of Japanese Seasons

Awarded one Michelin star, Whitegrass stands out as an exceptional gastronomic destination under the leadership of Executive Chef Takuya Yamashita. The restaurant celebrates classic French cuisine, subtly reinterpreted through a contemporary Japanese sensibility, guided by the rhythm of the seasons and the pursuit of the freshest ingredients. By favoring predominantly Japanese produce elevated through precise French techniques, each tasting menu reveals an approach that is inventive, delicate, and deeply respectful of nature. Sustainability, the journey of each ingredient, and the expertise of producers play an essential role in this refined cuisine, where culinary tradition and artistic creativity meet with remarkable balance.

A Journey from Nara to Singapore

At the helm of Whitegrass, Chef Takuya Yamashita draws on classical French training and a sensibility deeply rooted in nature. Born in Nara Prefecture, amid majestic mountains and lush forests, he developed early on a sincere respect for ingredients, a philosophy he refined throughout a remarkable career: after beginning in French cuisine at Aux Provençaux in Tokyo, he moved to France in 2015, where he worked at the Michelin-starred restaurant Étude in Paris as well as the bistro Les Enfants Rouges, before returning to Tokyo to join Ciel et Sol under Chef Kazunori Otowa. Today in Singapore, he celebrates both the purity of ingredients and the work of those who produce them. Close to tea growers, fishermen from Kyushu, and passionate artisans, Chef Takuya transforms each plate into a sensitive narrative, where French technique, Japanese elegance, and the memory of terroir come together to offer guests an intimate, refined, and deeply memorable experience.

A Dinner in Homage to Spring

The tasting menu we chose is a true culinary symphony, promising to delight even the most demanding palates. The amuse-bouche embodies this promise with a harmony of delicate, refined flavors. The cod croquette, golden to perfection, is accompanied by a small spoon holding tender squid garnished with subtly sweet green Japanese chili. Beside it, a soft madeleine stands out for its texture, while the Japanese fish tartare is lavishly enhanced with caviar, crisp cucumber, and Japanese flowers, adding a touch of color and sophistication. As an accompaniment, two types of house-made bread are served, including an unusual plain focaccia with smoked salted Bordier butter, completing this exquisite culinary opening. To elevate the experience, the ANICCA Sparkling Tea White Peach - Bergamot - Earl Grey offers a sparkling drink with fruity and floral notes.

Continuing in a sequence of exquisite flavors, the next dish appears as a delightful culinary creation featuring Canadian lobster cooked at low temperature. This refined dish is accompanied by Japanese mountain vegetables, known as Sansai Petit Vert, whose springtime bitterness brings a detoxifying note after winter. At the base of the dish, a cauliflower purée adds softness and texture, while a truffle sauce envelops the whole with rich, luxurious flavor. Yellow petals, touches of crisp green, and flecks of pepper compose a plate as refined as it is luminous, magnified by the pairing with a glass of Donnafugata Anthìlia Sicilia DOC, whose Sicilian freshness gracefully complements the finesse of the lobster and the vegetal notes of the dish.

A new and delicious composition highlights tender white asparagus from the Loire. They are elevated by the savory richness of guanciale, a traditional Italian ingredient bringing a salty, crisp touch. The dish is coated in a silky sabayon sauce, enriched with nuances of mushroom and chicken, and lifted by the subtle heat of Kampot pepper. In the background, a butter-free black sesame brioche accompanies this delight, made solely with sesame oil and composed of 80% black sesame and 20% white sesame, offering a soft texture and pronounced nutty flavor to complete the ensemble.

Continuing with the "Japanese market fish," this dish is an elegant plate showcasing Spanish mackerel from Koshi Prefecture in Japan. The fish is delicately set on an intense red wine sauce, which accentuates its rich, deep flavors. Alongside it, a portion of takenoko, or bamboo shoots, adds a tender, subtle texture. The whole is garnished with kinome leaves, bringing a fresh, herbaceous touch. To complete the experience, the dish is ideally paired with a glass of Awatere River, Marlborough Pinot Noir Rosé 2023, which harmoniously complements its flavors.

Next, the sumptuous duck breast is a true symphony of flavors. The duck, sourced from Indiana in the United States, is accompanied by a Greek honey vinegar sauce that adds a sweet and tangy touch. Celeriac completes the dish with its delicate texture, while a mikkan condiment lifts the whole with a citrus note. This refined dish is ideally paired with a glass of Fuori Porta Da Uve di Sangiovese Vino Rosso, a red wine that accentuates the rich, savory nuances of the duck breast.

Before moving on to dessert, this pre-dessert presents a delicate quenelle of Yata Cola syrup sorbet, famed for its complex composition of more than 20 spices, recreating the unique taste of Japanese cola. It rests on a fromage blanc base, offering a creamy, gentle texture that contrasts with the sorbet’s spiced sweetness.

The culinary journey draws to a close with the dish entitled "Organic Matcha," a refined creation that elegantly marries the subtle flavors of matcha and white chocolate. At the base, a matcha blanc-manger offers a soft, creamy texture. The dessert is enhanced by almond ice cream, adding a note of freshness and crunch. Japanese strawberries bring a fruity, tangy touch, while a delicate tea disc completes the presentation, adding a unique visual and gustatory dimension. White chocolate contributes a smooth sweetness that blends harmoniously with the whole.

To conclude this journey of taste, these mignardises pay tribute to French and Japanese flavors. They include a honey and almond financier, offering a soft texture and delicate taste, accompanied by a sakura daifuku that adds a subtle floral touch. The presentation is elegant, evoking harmony between the two culinary cultures. This refined finale is perfectly completed by a detox tea, which refreshes the palate and balances the sweet flavors.

My Review

At Whitegrass, the experience unfolds with the grace of a dialogue between Singaporean heritage, French precision, and Japanese sensitivity, guided by the delicate hand of Chef Takuya Yamashita. Within the historic setting of CHIJMES, every detail, from the subdued lighting to the subtle pairings, accompanies a tasting menu where the seasons dictate their poetry and the ingredients reveal their full nobility. For travelers seeking a Michelin-starred address in Singapore, Whitegrass offers a gastronomic interlude of great finesse, at once intimate, contemporary, and imbued with a quiet Japanese beauty.